Wednesday, August 20, 2014

The Stinky Tofu Challenge

I arose from my slumber around noon, a common time for me to wake up when not working my 8 to 5. The day started off like any other. Check my messages on my phone from the night before, typical morning bathroom things, get dressed, not attempt anything with my hair, pet the dog as she jumps on me in excitement, make a simple breakfast as my roommates clean up their lunch, etc. But this day wasn't be like any other, because it was the day I conquered the greatest personal challenge in China. Climb the Great Wall? Hang off the edge of mountain? Speak Mandarin? Move to a new and unfamiliar city without knowing anybody at all? No. This was the day I ate stinky tofu (direct translation of the Chinese, Chou Doufu 臭豆腐).

Stinky tofu:

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Danielle, why would you eat something that straight up has the word “stinky” in the name? Well, dear reader, for two reasons. 1) I had heard that it doesn’t actually taste that bad, despite it smelling like poo. My first week in China, in order to practice grammar patterns, we learned the phrase “据说臭豆腐闻起来臭,吃起来香。,” which means “It is said that stinky tofu smells bad but tastes good.” But also, and more importantly, reason 2) the awe-inspiring Sharon told me she would buy me Lily Allen concert tickets if I finished a serving of the stanky delicacy. As an unpaid intern, big Lily Allen aficionado, and self-proclaimed professional eater, I quickly accepted the challenge.

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[Lyrics from a Lily Allen song presumably written by Stinky Tofu, to me]

The wager: eat one serving of stinky tofu and write an at least 4096 English character report, including photo and video evidence, in exchange for a ticket to Lily Allen’s concert in Atlanta on September 17, 2014. 

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Back in Wuhan, I told my coworkers and flatmates about the challenge. Most of them told me it’s really not that bad, and one flatmate even expressed her fondness for the smell, because it lets her know the food is nearby. Days went by. Hot and humid days. Days where the fragrance of the stinky tofu from the vender outside wafted their way into the metro leaving the whole place literally smelling like shit (excuse my language). I questioned my sanity, as well as my resolve. But I have never been one to give up, especially if that also meant backing out on a promise. 

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So when the day arrived, I waited patiently for my friend to come pick me up. Together, we went to Hubu Xiang, a popular snack alley in Wuchang district of Wuhan. It was close enough to walk from where I live, but more convenient to drive on a hot summer day in the city known as the “furnace of China.” We passed various types of food but I wanted to get it over with. We stopped by one stall but his “chou doufu” mysteriously wasn’t smelly at all, and I wanted to do it right. Alas, in the distance we saw a line formed across the alley. Our eyes scanned the line to the front where we found the sign: 臭豆腐 chou doufu. This was our man (and woman).


After waiting long enough, and forking (chopsticking?) over 5 kuai, I received my order. A standard serving with 7 pieces of stinky tofu. Now might be a good time to mention that I am generally not a fan of tofu, irrespective of stank factor. With no time to lose, I used the skewer provided, stabbed into the first piece, and took a bite. Well, I tried. But it was really hot. Like, spicy hot, sure, but I can handle that. Temperature wise though. Like, burn my mouth off hot. Good lord. It was a like biting into a soft, smooth textured, miniature, edible furnace. I made it through a piece doing that thing where you have food in your mouth while simultaneously breathing through your mouth trying to cool off. It was classy, naturally, but due to the heat, I couldn’t really get a good taste of it. So we took a filming intermission.

 
[Oops sideways]
 
Take two lasted longer than take one, yet clearly we didn’t wait long enough because we had to take a second intermission to let it cool even more. But between three takes, and countless frames of me struggling to eat food like a respectable human being, I slowly but surely made it through all 7 pieces.  Locals stared as the foreigner made a miniature spectacle of herself. The smell of chou doufu drifted around in waves as I made my way through the bowl, reminding me why I was going through this endeavor.

All in all, the taste was eh. I wouldn’t do it again, even if I let it cool, and honestly, waiting on line for this stinky specialty was worse than eating it. But I did it. And the next day, that smell of poop wafting through the air of the metro was no more comforting than it had been the week before. It just smelled like poop.

[Videos 2 & 3 aren't uploading but I will do my best to add them here as soon as possible!]

So there you go Sharon. Over 4300 characters. Huzzah!

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